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The Ultimate Putter Guide
A successful round, a few strokes under par, and the pro on TV lines up for the obligatory interview after signing the scorecard. As usual, the player highlights their putting as a key part of today's great play. We've all seen it before. But do those words really reach us? Do we truly understand how crucial putting is in the game?
On average, a golfer takes about 40% of their strokes on the green. That's quite a lot. Of course, you need to practice to become really good at putting. But playing with the right putter for you is also a decisive factor.
Many golfers focus on drivers, irons, or wedges when updating their bag, but considering how often you use the putter compared to, for example, the driver, it might be worth shifting the focus.
There are a plethora of brands and models when it comes to putters, and it's hard to say that one is better than another. When it comes to putters, it's very much about personal preference – what you like to hold and look at. Here, we go through the basic facts you need to make a better choice the next time you're looking for a new putter to sink those birdie putts.
WHAT KIND OF MODELS ARE THERE?
Broadly speaking, we can divide all models into four categories.
Blade
Blade putters have been with us as long as the game of golf has existed. A blade putter often has more weight in the toe of the clubhead, making it best suited for players with a slightly arc-shaped putting stroke who need extra help closing the blade at impact. It’s not uncommon for players to feel they have better touch with a blade putter, especially when it comes to distance control.
Mallet
In the past, "everyone" played with blade irons, but that's not the case today. This development has also carried over to putters – for both professionals and regular golfers. A mallet is larger and is considered more forgiving than a blade putter. When hitting off-center, the clubhead won’t twist as much as a blade putter can. A mallet model provides extra stability on short putts, and since the putter has a larger volume, there’s room for clear alignment aids on the top. If you have a straight putting stroke, chances are you’ll feel most comfortable with this type of putter.
If you're new to golf, a mallet model is a good choice to start with in your bag.
Midmallet
What do you get when you cross a blade putter and a mallet? Exactly, a midmallet! Compared to a blade putter, the clubhead will be a little larger, providing more room to distribute the weight, which means there are both neutral-weighted and toe-weighted midmallets.
Armlock
A model that has become more and more common in recent years, especially among younger players. Belly putters were something we saw many golfers using until 2016, before anchoring the putter against the body was banned. Since then, Armlock models have evolved. The clubhead can be either blade, midmallet, or mallet-sized. The key with armlock is that they are longer than a regular putter, and the grip is pressed against the forearm to create a more stable movement. An armlock putter also has more loft than a regular putter so you can lean the shaft forward. Will Zalatoris and Bryson DeChambeau are two players who use this technique.
Weight
Overall, there are two main ways to distribute weight in a putter head:
Toe-hang weighting
– As the name suggests, the putter has extra weight in the toe area. This varies between models, but generally, the more arched your putting stroke is, the more toe weight you should have.
Face balanced
– Here, the weight is distributed neutrally across the entire clubhead, which benefits players with a straight-back, straight-through putting stroke.
When discussing the total weight of a putter, a blade putter is usually lighter than a mallet. The advantage of a lighter putter is increased feel and better distance control, making it a great option for fast greens. A slightly heavier mallet putter helps maintain a consistent stroke tempo and adds stability on short putts.
Zero Torque
Lie Angle Balance, Square 2 Square, Toe Up, Onset – there are many names, but we choose to use Zero Torque as a general term for this type of putter. In short, a Zero Torque putter is designed to bring the clubhead into a square position at impact, giving you the best chance to sink more putts and start the ball on the correct line.
The shaft attachment is center-shafted, with the center of gravity positioned below the shaft, which sits slightly behind the face. Often, the shaft also has built-in forward lean, which helps the ball start rolling faster. A Zero Torque putter is designed to suit all types of putting strokes.
To hit a perfect putt, alignment, speed, and face control must be in sync. The idea behind Zero Torque is that you only need to focus on alignment and speed – the putter should "automatically" deliver the face correctly.
Hosel
The way the shaft is attached to the clubhead can vary. Here, we go through the most common variants.
Plumber neck
With a hosel that bends backward, the blade sits just behind the shaft, and the ball is positioned directly below the shaft at setup – a form of offset designed for putters. A plumber neck makes the putter toe-hung. It suits players with both a large and small arc in their putting stroke. This hosel type is also referred to as an L-neck or Crank-hosel.
Double bend
The shaft has two bends near the bottom to help prevent the clubhead from rotating during the stroke and to promote a straighter putting motion. This hosel type is commonly found on face-balanced putters.
Single bend
Very similar to the double bend shaft, but with one bend instead of two. The difference is that the ball is positioned slightly farther forward, helping many golfers get the ball rolling sooner. When standing over the ball, you can see how the shaft moves toward the middle of the clubhead before bending at the end to attach at the heel. This design enhances alignment by making the intended putting line more visible while keeping the putter face balanced.
Small slant
A design favored by many golfers, including Rory McIlroy. The shaft extends almost all the way down to the blade but has a small bend at the end to create offset. A small slant hosel adds a slight toe-hang weighting, but not excessively so, making it a popular choice for various types of players. Also known as a short slant or flow neck.
Center
The shaft goes straight down to the middle of the clubhead. The main advantage is that you can use the shaft for aiming assistance, making it easier to align the ball on the correct starting line. A center-shafted putter provides a neutral face-balanced weighting.
Length
For men, the most common putter length is 34”, while a standard women’s putter is usually 33”. Armlock models are longer, around 40–42”, to allow the putter to reach up to your forearm where you anchor it. But your height alone does not determine the correct length—your stance, arm length, and personal preference all play a role. Try different lengths to see what feels best for you.
Loft & Lie
A 7-iron typically has a loft of around 32 degrees, and just like that, putters also have a slight angle on the face. The standard loft is 3–4 degrees, which helps ensure a consistent roll. The lie angle varies between models but is generally around 70 degrees. Professional golfers get their putters customized so that the lie and loft angles match their stance and posture. Looking ahead, we may see more amateur golfers adjusting their putters the same way they do with drivers and iron sets through custom fitting.
Grip
The thickness of the grip affects how active your hands are during the putting stroke. A thicker grip often helps reduce excessive hand movement and encourages a softer grip on the putter. In general, thicker grips are beneficial for players who struggle with unwanted hand twitches. Thicker grips are typically better suited for larger putter models, while thinner grips are preferred for blade putters by golfers who rely on feel. The trend continues where many golfers replace the original grip with a slightly thicker one. Today, pistol grips are also common. These grips have an extra buildup at the top of the backside, allowing for a more comfortable hand placement and improved stability.
